Just hold your finger down and tap with a different area each time you open it. It’s a fingerprint padlock with a small square sensor on the front that can recognise up to ten fingerprints, allowing you to open the padlock in an instant. If you’re forever losing keys and forgetting combinations, Groov-e’s My Lock could be the answer. Price when reviewed: £29 | Check price at Amazon More expensive doesn’t necessarily mean better, though, so be sure to check out our reviews below for the best padlocks for all situations and budgets.Ĥ. For a shed full of power tools, or a garage containing valuable bikes you will want to spend a little more for a higher quality lock. For filing cabinet of documents in your home office, a £5 lock will likely be up to the task. How much do I need to spend?įor budget, the value of whatever you need to protect is always a decent guide. This can be bad for security – you only need one key to get access to several doors, drawers or lockers – but it’s a plus when it comes to convenience. It’s also possible to find packs of padlocks that are ‘keyed alike’, meaning that they all open with the same key. Some high-end padlocks even come with a restricted key, which locksmiths will refuse to duplicate without evidence that you’re the owner. The more pins, the harder it is for the lock to be picked or the key to be duplicated. If you do go for a padlock with a key, look for one with four or more pins – the tumblers that keep the lock from opening until it’s turned with the right key. It also means there’s no need to get key copies cut, and there’s no danger of losing the key – do make sure to remember the combination, however! Traditional key designs are more conventional, but a combination lock is ideal for situations where multiple people need access to the same lock. READ NEXT: The best wireless alarm systems for home security Should I go for a combination lock or keys? You won’t see much benefit from a top-tier padlock if you pair it with a sub-par hasp or staple that can easily be cut or pried away from the frame. The staple is the metal hoop that’s usually attached to the door frame, while the hasp is the flat, hinged strip of metal on the door itself that you fold over the staple before attaching the lock. In the case of gates and shed doors the accessory components are usually going to be a staple and a hasp. Your padlock is only as secure as the weakest component it’s attached to. Buying an independently tested lock will give you the assurance that it’s sufficiently secure for your given application, and you may also find that some insurance policies specify certain lock ratings in order for you to be covered. For example, CEN grading runs from one to six (with six being the most secure) and is based on how easy a lock is to cut through, how long it would take to pick, and how strong the lock is while being pulled and twisted. Each testing body has its own grading system. Seal of approval – For a locking up items of particular value it may be worth looking into a lock with an endorsement from one of the independent testing bodies, particularly “Sold Secure” (owned by the Master Locksmiths’ Association), “Kite Mark” (owned by the British Standards Institute) and the European standard, “CEN”. Padlocks with minimal shackle exposure, or locks that shroud part of the shackle within the body of the lock are far tougher to cut into. A large, exposed shackle presents criminals with the opportunity to go at the lock with cutters. While shopping for a padlock, for the most security, you will want to pick up a model where the shackle is mostly hidden or shielded. Shackle – The shackle is the hoop section at the top of the lock.
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